THE GARDEN SCOOP: Fall Is for Planting

The soil is warm, the air is cool and many trees, shrubs and perennials are lovin’ it. Maybe you are too with that flannel shirt on!  

A sea of flannel! 

On to planting… whatever you are planting, it’s important to rough up your root ball. Untangle those circling roots and don’t be afraid to be brutal when pruning to ensure those roots won’t girdle! Think of it as if you were wrapped up like a mummy and how AWESOME it would feel to bust loose and stretch out your arms and legs!  

Massively circling roots (below and at the top) 

Using a sharp knife, slice the roots 

While this is an elephant ear plant, the same method applies to trees, shrubs and perennials! 

Pruned and ready to plant 

Your next move is to the planting hole! Make sure it’s at least twice as wide as your plant and just deep enough so that the crown of your plant and/or those small roots near the surface of your plant will sit slightly ABOVE the soil.  

At this time of year, add a root stimulator not fertilizer. The idea is to establish the roots, not encourage top growth. Note: some trees will need staking. The diagram below is from the University of Minnesota Extension on Planting and Transplanting Trees. 

The University of Minnesota Extension has recently come out with more information on staking newly planted trees. Apparently some folks have been leaving those stakes in too long... ouch 

Most of the time, when planted correctly, trees do not need staking. Read more from the University HERE. The point is that trees need to be able to sway in the wind, this helps strengthen their trunk. Be sure to tamp down the soil firmly when planting. If your tree is wobbly, then stake it but leave room for sway and remove the stakes after a year or two. And PLEASE, for the love of your plants, do NOT plant too deep.

Add that layer of mulch like a donut not a volcano!  

Planted and mulched cotoneaster. Notice the mulch is pulled away from the stem at the base 

Now, WATER, WATER, WATER up until the ground freezes! I’m serious, especially in a drought year. If you’re not sure how much to water, ask our experts when purchasing your plants!  

You might have put that hose away, but you can still get water to them. Check out our Tree Expert, Sean, on Preparing your trees/shrubs/evergreens for Winter. Again, it’s especially important to water NEWLY planted plants to help them establish themselves and take on our winter. Generally, you can water into the first week of December in Zone 4.  

You can plant trees, shrubs and perennials as long as the soil is workable. Evergreens should not be planted any later than the middle of October.  

Here’s to Fall, flannel and planting fabulous plants,